Cuticle Layer Close Look at the Cuticle Layer Compact Low Porosity Normal Raised Hight Porosity Batang Rambut
Formasi Rambut 1. Diawali dengan atom tunggal 2. Terakumulasi menjadi molekul asam amino 3. Asam amino berikatan membentuk peptida atau ujung rantai 4. Asam-asam amino membentuk rantai protein polipeptida 5. Rantai protein tunggal berikatan dengan rantai lain dengan ikatan hidrogen, ikatan garam dan ikatan disulfida 6. Rambut 7 Untai Helix Rantai Polipeptida (Protein) Cuticle
Hair is made up of protein called keratin Hair is 97% keratin and 3% trace minerals Hair contains 19 of 22 common amino acids. Protein
Makes up about 35% of hairs strength. Individually very weak and can easily be broken by heat or water to create physical (temporary) changes in the hair. How it Works: The hydrogen atom in one molecule is attracted to an atom of another molecule that has many negative electrons. Ikatan Hidrogen
Also broken by water to create physical (temporary) changes in the hair. How it Works: Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another amino acid grouping. Ikatan Garam
Disulfide Bonds Sulfur containing side bond - Most important to a Cosmetologist. A chemical bond that forms between protein structures; sulfur-type side chains join with other sulfur-type side chains to form disulfide bonds. Much stronger than hydrogen or salt bonds. Not broken by heat or water. Only a chemical change. Example – permanent wave
van der Waal’s Based on theory that atomic groups prefer an environment with other groups that have structures similar to theirs. Not necessarily important for Cosmetologist, other than to know that it exists and plays a role in bonding of protein chains.
End Bonds (Peptide Bonds) Backbone of all protein molecules Links the amino acid protein chains together end to end. Do not disturb the end bond, this could destroy the protein structure. If broken, protein chains separate into small fragments, or revert to groups of amino acids that no longer have the characteristics of hair. RESULT – VERY DAMAGED HAIR!
Van der Waal’s Label the Bonds Side Bonds Link the long spiraling protein chains together. Made up of hydrogen, salt and disulfide and Van der Waal’s forces.
Virgin Hair surface Mix Hidrofobic and Hidrofolic Protein Isoelectric Point near 3.67 Surface contain negatively Charged
The pH Scale Conditioners & Shampoo Soap Hair relaxers Hair In this section you will learn what the pH scale is and it’s values associated with water, acids and alkalines.
Acid Balanced pH is in the same range as skin and hair 4.5 – 5.5 Ex. Acid Balanced Shampoo
Shampoo Membersihkan kulit kepala dan rambut Menghilangkan molekul asing tanpa menyebabkan kerusakan kulit kepala dan rambut How Shampoo Works A push pull action is caused by a surface active agent causing the oil to “roll up” into droplets that are lifted and rinsed away.
Surfactant Water LovingOil Loving Surfactant Molecule Surface active agent Has water loving and oil loving ends.
The tail of the shampoo molecule is attracted to oil and dirt
Shampoo causes oil to roll up into small globules
During rinsing, the heads of the shampoo molecules attach to water molecules and cause debris to roll off.
Bleaching Saat bleaching, kutikula rambut akan dimasukkan bahan-bahan kimia sehingga pigmen alami rambut hilang Highlight dan pewarnaan Menguncir rambut dengan cara yang salah Menyisir saat basah gesekan rambut yang berlebihan sehingga rambut mudah patah, saat basah titik terlemah rambut Terlalu sering keramas pelembab alami rambut akan terkikis Pengeritingan Blowdry dan catok Faktor Penyebab Kerusakan Rambut
Pencegahan Kerusakan Rambut Raised hair cuticles are common in relaxed or bleached hair and are in part the reason why these processes can make hair more fragile and susceptible to damage (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, pp 180-185, 2003).
So, should you go for an oil or a conditoner or a conditioner oil mix? Well let us see what you get with each! Role 1: Hair damage caused by hair expanding when wet then contracting again when dry (hygral fatigue). Certain oils like coconut oil and olive oil are known to penetrate slightly under the cuticle and help reduce the expansion of hair when wet (J Cosmet Sci, pp 169-184, 2001).(hygral fatigue) Role 2: Shampoos work by lifting oil off from the surface of hair Role 3: Hair treated with coconut oil as a pre-wash has been shown to be less susceptible to breakage after washing. (J Cosmet Sci, pp 327-339, 1999)
Pewarnaan rambut semi permanen: pewarna cukup sedikit yang masuk dalam struktur batang rambut dan dengan mudah hilang ketika proses pencucian Pewarna kationik digunakan pewarnaan semi-permanen: molekul pewarna yang berukuran besar masuk kedalam batang rambut dan batang rambut menghasilkan muatan negatif pada permukaan Pewarnaan Rambut Semi-Permanen
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