LEATHER CRAFT DESIGN AND PRODUCTION

LEATHER CRAFT DESIGN AND PRODUCTION
6. HAND SEWING Grade : X Semester 1 BY: MAS SITI DJULAEHA,S.Pd. TRANSLATED BY SITI NURHAYATI, S.Pd SMK NEGERI I KALASAN

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
COMPETENCY MAPPING COMPETENCY STANDARD 6. HAND SEWING BASIC COMPETENCY BASIC COMPETENCY BASIC COMPETENCY 6.1 Identify the kinds and types of hand sewing 6.2 Do the hand sewing 6.3 Make decorative hand sewing Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

DEFINITION Manual/hand sewing is sewing by hands to join two or more pieces of items. The sewing process is done by measuring, marking, hole-making, and then sewing the project by hand. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

INSTRUCTIONAL OBJECTIVES
Students are able to : 6.1 Identify the kinds and types of hand sewing 6.2 Do the hand sewing 6.3 Make decorative hand sewing Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

6.1 Identify the kinds and types of hand sewing Kinds of hand sewing : 1). Single needle sewing 2). Double needle sewing Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Technique: The technique classified by the material: 1. Regular sewing (cotton thread etc ) it uses thread needles 2. Decorative sewing ( thong leather plaiting)  it uses lacing needles Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Regular sewing Two ways of regular sewing: single hand sewing 2. double hand sewing Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Decorative Hand Sewing (leather braiding)
The techniques are: Running stitch. Braiding / plaiting Double plaiting Single braiding Twin braiding Single knot Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Tools for hand sewing 1. Needle 2. Awl and hole spacer 3. Clamp Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

4. Tracer or hole spacer 5. Ruler and dividers Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Material 1. Thread 2. Wax 3. Leather Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

6.2 Doing the Hand Sewing Preparation; a. Marking by pricking the project Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

b. Making holes along the pricking area Fastening the thread d. Knotting the thread Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

How to Set the Thread Into the Needle Eye
1). Set the thread into the eye, left it 10 cm - 12 cm for knotting. sewing. 2). Twist and loosen the rest of thread on the its tip so that the needle can go into the thread easily. then draw the thread downward until it touches the top of the needle. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

3). After it touches the top, draw the needle upward, then set the thread between hole of thread. Make double knotting. This knotting can be applied in single or double needle. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

The position of needle Saddler stitch: Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

1). Make the first hole on the marking line using a thin awl. Hold the awl with your right hand. Try to pierce it as deep as possible. Mind that the hole is exactly set through the marking line. Mind also that it goes in the precise direction. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

2). With your right hand, face the needle to the awl, follow the awl direction, set the needle into the material. Remove the awl. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

3). Pada tahap ini berarti jarum yang satu berada disebelah kanan dan yang satu lagi berada disebelah kiri kulit yang akan dijahit. Usahakan benang yang ada disebelah kiri dan kanan panjangnya sama/seimbang. 3). In this phase, one needle is on the left of the leather whereas the other one is on the right. Try to have the same length of both the right and left thread. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

4). Buat lubang ke dua dengan menggunakan uncek. 4). Make the second hole using an awl. 5). Put the needle on your left hand into the hole. Follow the direction of the awl. Draw the awl. Draw the needle on your right hand. Do it together with the tip of the awl. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

6). Set the needle on the upper thread (from the upper hole) into the second hole which has been set by left needle, then draw with your left hand. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

8). Buat lubang ke 3. 8). Buat lubang ke 3. 7). Draw both threads together strongly. It makes the first hand sewing. 8). Make the third hole Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

9). Follow the guide before 10). As it is guided before 11). As it is guided before Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

12). Mengunci benang Setelah selesai dalam penjahitan maka tindakan yang terakhir adalah mengunci benang dengan cara kedua benang dimasukkan pada permukaan sambungan. Benang kiri dan kanan dikunci dengan cara dibundel cuma sampai tiga kali sehingga benang tidak lepas. Kemudian bundelan tersebut dimasukkan ke dalam permukaan sambungan dan ditekan serta diberi lem selanjutnya lakukan pengerjaan akhir. 12).Thread knotting Set both the threads into the surface of the joints. The left and right threads are knotted three times so that they are not easily released. Then the knot is set into the surface of the joints, we should press and put some adhesive substance. Fig: The position of thread knotting Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Fig: Sample of hand sewing which applies double needles Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

6.3 Decorative Hand Sewing Kinds of decorative plaiting: running stitch. Plaiting / braiding Double plaiting Single plaiting Twin plaiting single knot Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

RUNNING STITCH Prepare a thong. It is 1.5 times as much as the length of sewing lines. Make a 3 mm hole on its tip, see the figure below for your guide. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Draw the two parts of leather sheets set the needle into one part and draw it out Sew it through the “ alur” hole, then draw it tightly. See the figure below for further explanation Do the next stitching but always draw it tightly for every part. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Never draw the thread unless it has been the last stitch At the last stitch, set the needle into the previous hole by loosening the two sheets. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Jahit Tisik anyam tunggal
Prepare knot 6-6, it is 5 times as much as the length of sewing line Start stitching from the middle, set in the needle from the front to the back part, put the joint on the edge of the top. Do as shown below. Bend the tip of the thong upward and knot it. Hold the tip and sew it through the next hole after that draw it. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

On the joint, set the needle into the previous stitch, do it from the below to the upper part Move it to the next hole and sew it to the back part. Do the same thing for the next stitches Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Sew it 2x or 3x on every holes’ corner make a hook stitch a shown in the figure and take it upward between the width of the two leather sheets. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Set the loop from the first stitch into the hole below Then set it to the front . Follow the picture below as your guide. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Twin Plaiting Prepare a 8-8 knot, make it 5 x as much as the length of sewing lines Set in and draw ( as shown in the figure) and leave 2 cm From the joint, set the knot again from the front part to the back through the second hole Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Hold the back part of thong tip Set the needle through the cross as presented in the figure Move it to the front and set in to the third hole Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Follow 2 next steps as guided by the picture below Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Draw the tip through the middle of the two sheets. Use a hooked stitch Then draw it upward Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Cut the tip and put some glue between. Make the next loop as shown below Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Do as shown by the picture below Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Draw the needle from the first loop then stitch it to the last and draw it tightly. Set the needle in the last hole found between the two sheets and draw it tightly to the upper Finally cut, put some glue, flatten, and slowly hit it. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

REFERENSI I wayan Suardana dkk, 2008, BSE Kriya Kulit Jilid 1, Direktorat P SMK, Dirjen Dikdasmen, Depdiknas I wayan Suardana dkk, 2008, BSE Kriya Kulit Jilid 2, Direktorat P SMK, Dirjen Dikdasmen, Depdiknas I wayan Suardana dkk, 2008, BSE Kriya Kulit Jilid 3, Direktorat P SMK, Dirjen Dikdasmen, Depdiknas Marsudi,Drs, 2007( MODUL ) MEMBUAT POLA PRODUK KULIT ( NON ALAS KAKI DAN NON BUSANA ) , P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Marsudi , Drs , ( MODUL ) PENYELESAIAN AKHIR (FINISHING) PRODUK KULIT, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Marsudi, Drs., 2007 (MODUL) Menjahit dengan mesin, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Diding Suchrodin,2005, MENYESET KULIT DENGAN PISAU SESET MANUAL, Direktorat SMK ,Dikdasmen, Depdiknas Marsudi , Drs , MEMOTONG KOMPONEN KRIYA KULIT DENGAN TANGAN , P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Drs.Marsudi, Drs. 2007,MERAKIT / MENYETEL PRODUK KULIT NON ALAS KAKI DAN NON BUSANA, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Tyas P. S.Pd, 2008, Membuat Sandal Pria,P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Tyas P. S.Pd, 2008, Modul Pola Sepatu Fantofel, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Tyas P, S.Pd 2008, Proses Pembuatan Sandal, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Tyas P,, S.Pd, 2008, BAHAN AJAR SEPATU FANTOFEL DENGAN AKSESORIS KULIT SAMAK BULU , P4TK-SB Yogyakarta

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