LEATHER CRAFT DESIGN AND PRODUCTION 1.  SHOE PRODUCTION Grade : XI ,XII Semester 3,6 By: Mas Siti Djulaeha, S.Pd. Translated by Siti Nurhayati, S.Pd SMK Negeri I Kalasan

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata COMPETENCY MAPPING COMPETENCY STANDARD 1.  SHOE PRODUCTION BASIC COMPETENCY BASIC COMPETENCY BASIC COMPETENCY BASIC COMPETENCY 1.2   Skive various leather skiving 1.3   Build/form the shOES 1.1. IDentify the kinds and model of shoes 1.4   Do the finishing Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata INTRODUCTION FUNCTION : Shoes are used for keeping the health of our feet and also set as clothing decoration in either formal and informal occassion Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

INSTRUCTIONAL OBJECTIVES Students are able to: 1.1   Identify the kinds and model of shoes 1.2   Skive various leather skiving 1.3   Build/form shoes 1.4   Do the finishing Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata MATERIAL Kinds of Shoes 1. Sandals/flip-flops/thongs/V- strap shoes 2. Open shoes/T-strap shoe 3. Cloggs 4. Shoes Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 1.1 IDENTIFY THE KINDS AND MODEL OF SHOES KINDS OF SHOES: 1. CHILDREN SHOES : MALE, FEMALE 2. GROWN-UP SHOES : MEN : LOW HEELED, MIDDLE HEELED WOMEN : LOW HEELED, MIDDLE HEELED, HIGH HEELED Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata MODELS OF SHOES 1. Derby 2. Fantofel, Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata MODELS OF SHOES 3. Pump (women), 4. Oxford (mulliere), Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata MODELS OF SHOES 5. Monk, 7. Moccasine 8. Sport, Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 1.2  Do Various Kinds of Leather Skiving Oblique skiving It is for jahitan tumpang or foldings Flat skiving  it is for partial/whole folding and it is also for the ends of fabric Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

CONT’: KINDS OF SKIVING Curved skiving  it is used for making “alur”. This “alur” can help “tepong” building easier. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata CONT’ Fig Thin oblique skiving Fig: Quarter part   Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

THE SPECIFICATION OF SHOE SKIVING   Fig: Derby shoe Fig: Vamp quarter Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

CONT’ Folding result Skive the part which we are going to fold. This will help easy folding. Thin oblique skiving Fig. Part of oblique skiving thin and plane for folding Fig. oblique skiving/bulk folding result Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Bulky oblique skiving CONT’ The bulky and thin skiving at the back part is for reducing the bulk and for doing the reverse stitch easier. This kind of skiving is also applied when we want fix-cutting system or no folding around the components. Fig oblique skiving/bulk on back part Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

CONT’ The bulk oblique skiving below is to mould the upper part easier. It also helps attaching the sole easier reducing the bulk of leather.   Fig: oblique skiving on the back part of shoe Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

CONT’ This thin oblique skiving is to help folding the quarter part easier. Fig. Thin oblique skiving on the quarter part. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata SKIVING STEPS Prepare the skiving machine according to its specification. Prepare also the needed tools. b. Push the ON button to start Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Take the component we are going to skive. Mind the specification for each part. d. Start working by moving the leather under the presser foot cautiously while your foot are pressing the pedal. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata CONT’ e. Keep operating the machine until all components are skived. f. Skive the insole Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata CONT’ The tools required for skiving the sole is sole –skiving knife. The blade has 6 mm width and the outer part ( the tip of the knife) has a support which functions to press the skiving width. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata CONT’ The skiving width is around 6 mm and its depth is 2 mm. The thickness between outer and inner skiving is about 6 mm measured from the heel. The inner skiving has 45°. The function of outer skiving is for folding “obaleder”. The inner skiving is for sewing inner sole and “rahmen”.   Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 1.3   BUILD/FORM THE SHOES MATERIAL FOR BUILDING FANTOFEL Box leather b) Interfacing fabric Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata c) laken, blaco fabric d) Vinil e) Tekson Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata f) Tamsin g) Spon ati Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Sole Adhessive: aica aibom glue, yellow fox, PC, Prima D, HR, Herin Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Nails l) Shoe accesories m) Wax/ powder talc Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

THE PROCESS OF “FANTOFEL” BUILDING : TOOLS NEEDED FOR PATTERNING Cutting knife Scissors Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 3. Metal cutting ruler 4. Metal ruler 5. Awl Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 6. Dividers 7.Table and zinc block 8. Oil Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 9. Measuring tape 10. Pencil and coloured pen 11. Last Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Pencil e) Mistar Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Gunting g) Palu Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata “Kaki tiga” i) Skiving Machine Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Sewing Machine k) Cutting Knive Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Press Machine m) Compressor Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Marble o) Seng landasan Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Detailed information: LAST Detailed information: S = the heel point of last E = the tip point of last C = titik batas rendah sepatu bagian belakang Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Q = titik batas tinggi sepatu bagian belakang TT’= tinggi hak dengan bidang datar EE’= tinggi ujung acuan dengan bidang datar Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata CON’T V = titik batas bidang vamp I = titik Instep,batas tinggi quarter CLI = 90 derajat J = titik singgung lengkung bawah dengan bidang datar Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata CON’T SC = 1/5 SUP (Standar Ukuran Panjang) CV = 7/10 SUP CL = ½ SUP, diukur dari titik C E = hidung T = titik batas panjang lidah Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata BENTUK ALAS ACUAN Keterangan E = titik ujung acuan S = titik pusat bagian tumit SB = ¼ SUP Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata B’B’= batas letak tumit sepatu SM= 2/3 SUP NN= 1/10 SUP Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata SNJ’= 90 derajat, titik T merupakan bagian samping luar alas acuan SMJ = 90 derajat, titik T merupakan bagian samping dalam alas acuan J = titik jejak atau garis bal (gemuk acuan) Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

MATERIAL FOR PATERNING Hard paper Paper tape Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

THE WORKING STEP IN MAKING OUTER, INNER, AND AVERAGE PART Prepare the last Wrapp it using measuring tape Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Attached as shown in the picture below Fig. attaching the measuring tape Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Make diameter, and set C and V Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Cut the measuring tape on the diameter Draw the form on a sheet of paper Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata PATTERNING Take the mean form you have copied before, decide the length standard “SUP” including its point, for example no 39 (France measurement), the lenght is 250 mm. Set SC: 1/5 SUP setang SUP x 1/5=point C (250 mm x 1/5 SUP= 50 mm or 5 cm. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Set Q, it is from point C added with 12 mm to the upper. Set point Q, it is from point C, draw straight line to the front to get V or the length is 7/10 x SUP = 175 mm. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Draw a line from V to E , take the highest point of curve of the last. To get the joint of J, there are two ways: set J by finding the point of the outer curve and the flat area. Draw V to J. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Draw a perpendicur line EF, EV touches the tip of mean form. Measure EF = 12 mm from F, join it to V, then make a perpendicular line between FV until it touches the mean form on its lower part (point J). point FV = ┬ with VJ. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Set O, VO = ½ VJ + 3-5 mm Draw a line QO to find the outer curve of the quarter then set Q’, set in Q 3 mm to the inner, Set S’ which is gained from S adds 3 – 5 mm to the outer. After that draw Q to O . Set T from V ¼ SUP + 6 mm Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Draw the Quarter line, join Q’ to O,E,E’, F’, J’ S’ up to Q’. Merge the tongue with the apron make sadle, the width is equal with the length. From O draw ± 10 mm down ward. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata This below is the end product of fantofel pattern Group the patterns according to the intended part, make the grouping by using the cutting knife. The result is shown below: Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata The components of Fantovel The component of fantofel pattern according to the skiving specification Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata KINDS OF PATTRENS 1) master pattern 2) cutting pattern 3) working pattern Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

THE PROCESS OF FANTOFEL BUILDING : Master pattern Cutting pattern Fig: master pattern fig: cutting pattern and folding/joints Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata WORKING STEPS 1. Patterning 2. Cutting the material according to the pattern Fig: patterning Fig: cutting the material Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

3. Skiving by machine Fig: skiving by machine and the result Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 4. Folding Fig: folding Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

5. Setting the lining fabric Fig: setting the lining Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 6. Sewing Fig: Sewing the upper Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata IN SOLEBUILDING Making the pattern 2. Patterning fig: to Copy using paper tape Fig patterning in sole Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 3. Cutting the insole 4. setting the insole Fig: insole cutting Fig: insole setting Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 5. Smoothening 6. Lubricating the mould 7. Making the pattern 8. Patterning the interlacing Cutting the interlacing 10. cutting the edges of interlacing Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

11. Setting the interlacing Fig: setting the interlacing Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

STEPS IN MOULDING THE PATTERN 1. Raise the upper part which has been ready 2. Draw the tip Fign counter is n semiled fig: drawing the tip Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

3. Draw the heavy/bulky part 4. Lower down Q to the previous position Fig : drawing the heavy/bulky part Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Fig: lowering the Q part

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 5. Draw the part on the tip up to the heavy part 6. Draw at the base/top up to the heel Fig: Drawing at the part around the tip Drawing at the base Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 7. Putting filler using spon ati Fig: Putting filler 8. Sanding/grinding supporting outsole Fig: sanding Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

9. Hemming the surface of the mould and outsole Fig: hemming 10. Assembling vamp/atasan and outsole Fig: hemming the surface of the mould and pressing the rubber sole Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 11) Releasing mould 12) Setting the “tataan” Gambar 27. Pemasangan tataan Fig: mould releasing Fig: setting” tataan” Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 1.4  Shoe Finishing Kompresor dan perangkatnya Tols needed : 1. A set of compressor 2. wooden stick Fig: a set of compressor Fig: wooden stick Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 3. Wiping clothes 4.”Plisir” paint bowl 5. Brush Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 6. Solder 7. scissors Fig: Solder Fig: scissors Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Par iwisata MATERIAL 1. “Plisir” paint 2. Silicon spray 3. Polish 4. Gasoline Seni Kerajinan dan Par iwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 5. “Krep” rubber 6. Wax Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 13) Finishing touch Removing spilled glue on sole Fig: Fantofel Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

REFERENSI I wayan Suardana dkk, 2008, BSE Kriya Kulit Jilid 1, Direktorat P SMK, Dirjen Dikdasmen, Depdiknas I wayan Suardana dkk, 2008, BSE Kriya Kulit Jilid 2, Direktorat P SMK, Dirjen Dikdasmen, Depdiknas I wayan Suardana dkk, 2008, BSE Kriya Kulit Jilid 3, Direktorat P SMK, Dirjen Dikdasmen, Depdiknas Marsudi,Drs, 2007( MODUL ) MEMBUAT POLA PRODUK KULIT ( NON ALAS KAKI DAN NON BUSANA ) , P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Marsudi , Drs. 2007, ( MODUL ) PENYELESAIAN AKHIR (FINISHING) PRODUK KULIT, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Marsudi, Drs., 2007 (MODUL) Menjahit dengan mesin, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta  Diding Suchrodin,2005, MENYESET KULIT DENGAN PISAU SESET MANUAL, Direktorat SMK ,Dikdasmen, Depdiknas Marsudi , Drs. 2007, MEMOTONG KOMPONEN KRIYA KULIT DENGAN TANGAN , P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Drs.Marsudi, Drs. 2007,MERAKIT / MENYETEL PRODUK KULIT NON ALAS KAKI DAN NON BUSANA, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta  Tyas P. S.Pd, 2008, Membuat Sandal Pria,P4TK-SB Yogyakarta  Tyas P. S.Pd, 2008, Modul Pola Sepatu Fantofel, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Tyas P, S.Pd 2008, Proses Pembuatan Sandal, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Tyas P,, S.Pd, 2008, BAHAN AJAR SEPATU FANTOFEL DENGAN AKSESORIS KULIT SAMAK BULU , P4TK-SB Yogyakarta

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