LEATHER CRAFT DESIGN AND PRODUCTION 11. CLOTHING PRODUCTION, LEATHER JACKET Grade : XII Semester 5 BY MAS SITI DJULAEHA,S.Pd. TRANSLATED BY SITI NURHAYATI SMK N I KALASAN
COMPETENCY MAPPING 11. CLOTHING PRODUCTION, LEATHER JACKET COMPETENCY STANDARD 11. CLOTHING PRODUCTION, LEATHER JACKET BASIC COMPETENCY BASIC COMPETENCY BASIC COMPETENCY 11.1 identify material and tools f or clothing production 11.2 do patterning 11.3 explain the manual assembling Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
INSTRUCTIONAL OBJECTIVES Students are able to : 11.1 Identify material and tools for clothing production 11.2 Do patterning 11.3 Explain the manual assembling Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 11.1 Identifying material and tools for clothing production Materials : Leather 2. Lining Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 3. accessories 4. thread 5. glue Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 11.2 Patterning The tools required: Paper scale Red and blue pencil Pencil ruler Rader Measuring tape Seam ripper/ripping tool Penghapus Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Tools Flat sewing machine Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
2. Tools for patterning : - Cutting knife - Measuring ruler - Metal ruler - Awl
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Tools for patterning - Dividers - Stone sharpener Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
3. Tools for manual cutting metal ruler cutting knife Awl - silver ink Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Tools for manual cutting 4. Skiving machine 5. Wooden hammer 6. Marble blockrmer Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Material The material needed: ”Doorslag” paper Red for front part Blue fok back part Sewing Carbon paper Hardpaper Newspaper Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Patterning Process The basic pattern of jacket Measurements: LENGHT : 76 CM (MEASURED FROM THE TOP OF SHOULDER, BELOW EARS UP TO THE INTENDED LENGTH ) Fig: measuring the length of a jacket Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 2. BUST: 110 CM 9 (Measured from armpit to armpit + 4 times as much as the length of fingers for woman and + 10 times cm as much as the length of finger for man) Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 3. NECK: 43 CM (Measured around the neck + twice as much as the length of finger) Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 4. BACK LENGHT: 47 CM Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 5. SHOULDER MEASUREMENT : 4-5 CM Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 6. UPPER ARM MEASUREMENT: 49 CM (ROUND+ 4 TIMES AS MUCH AS THE LENGTH OF A FINGER) 7. THE LENGT OF SHOULDER Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 8. THE LENGTH OF ARM: 56 CM (measured from the top of upper part which fixed to shoulder up to the wrist) 9. THE LENGTH OF UPPER ARM: 30 CM (measured from the top of upper part which fixed to shoulder up to the elbow) Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 10. ELBOW MEASUREMENT : 43 CM WRIST MEASUREMENT: 26-28 CM 11. ARM MEASUREMENT Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Jacket Pattern (scale1:4) Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
THE COMPONENTS OF PATTERN Gambar Komponen Pola badan depan dan lengan depan Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
THE COMPONENTS OF PATTERN Gambar Komponen Pola Badan Belakang dan lengan belakang Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Information FRONT PATTERN A - A1 = 2 CM A1 -A2 = 2 CM A - C = 1/6 NECK + 1 CM A - B = 1/6 NECK + 2 CM A2- D = ½ SHOULDER + 1 CM A1- H = ½ L. KERUNG LENGAN A - E = THE LENGTH OF JACKET H - G = ¼ L. BODY Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata BACK PART PATTERN 1. Make a line a // AE in 1 ½ - 2 cm to get B1-D1//B-D 2. Make a line b// BD in 4 cm to get B-B1 // D- D1 3. Set in the back diameter in 2 cm from front diameter 4. Draw B1 ┴ (straight lines) diameter Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata THE PATTERN OF ARM INFORMATION A - B = the length of arm A – D = ½ L. kerung lengan D - D1= ½ (A-D) – ½ cm B - B1= manset 4-5 cm A - C = the lengh t of upper arm C - C1= ½ L. the altered elbow 1 ½ cm Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata FIG: THE PATTERN OF ARM Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata THE PATTERN OF COLLAR INFORMATION: A – B = C – D = ½ NECK A - A1 = 3,5 CM A1- D = 4,5 CM Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata THE PATTERN OF ARM Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 11.3 EXPLAIN MANUAL ASSEMBLING STEPS : Taking the needed measurement Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 2. Making the basic pattern 3. Making the construction pattern Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 4. Altering the pattern 5. Designing the material 6. Applying the running stitches for every component Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 7. Preparing material and tools 8. Attaching the pattern on the material 9. Putting the marking cut line Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Cutting the material Using rader, make the Sewing marks Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 13. Sewing/assembling the component 14. Finishing 15. Packing Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
Samples of Leather Jacket Picture leather jacket source; www.elmisbah.cc.c Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata
REFERENSI I wayan Suardana dkk, 2008, BSE Kriya Kulit Jilid 1, Direktorat P SMK, Dirjen Dikdasmen, Depdiknas I wayan Suardana dkk, 2008, BSE Kriya Kulit Jilid 2, Direktorat P SMK, Dirjen Dikdasmen, Depdiknas I wayan Suardana dkk, 2008, BSE Kriya Kulit Jilid 3, Direktorat P SMK, Dirjen Dikdasmen, Depdiknas Marsudi,Drs, 2007( MODUL ) MEMBUAT POLA PRODUK KULIT ( NON ALAS KAKI DAN NON BUSANA ) , P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Marsudi , Drs. 2007, ( MODUL ) PENYELESAIAN AKHIR (FINISHING) PRODUK KULIT, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Marsudi, Drs., 2007 (MODUL) Menjahit dengan mesin, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Diding Suchrodin,2005, MENYESET KULIT DENGAN PISAU SESET MANUAL, Direktorat SMK ,Dikdasmen, Depdiknas Marsudi , Drs. 2007, MEMOTONG KOMPONEN KRIYA KULIT DENGAN TANGAN , P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Drs.Marsudi, Drs. 2007,MERAKIT / MENYETEL PRODUK KULIT NON ALAS KAKI DAN NON BUSANA, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Tyas P. S.Pd, 2008, Membuat Sandal Pria,P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Tyas P. S.Pd, 2008, Modul Pola Sepatu Fantofel, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Tyas P, S.Pd 2008, Proses Pembuatan Sandal, P4TK-SB Yogyakarta Tyas P,, S.Pd, 2008, BAHAN AJAR SEPATU FANTOFEL DENGAN AKSESORIS KULIT SAMAK BULU , P4TK-SB Yogyakarta
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