SERAT KAPAS
The most important natural textile fiber Worldwide about 40% consumed in 2004 Grown for fiber but is also a food crop (cottonseed) used for vegetable oil, whole seed, meal, and hulls for animal feed Seed hairs from plants of the order Malvales, family Malvaceae, genus Gossypium
COTTON PRODUCER COUNTRIES
PRODUKSI KAPAS DUNIA
WHY COTTON? Inherently strong Withstand repeated washing and laundering Dimensionally stable Can be dyed easily with a wide range of colors Withstand moderate heat Cool in hot wheather No static electricity problem
USES Apparel Jeans Men’s and boy’s shirts Men’s and boy’s underwear Home furnishings Towels Sheets Pillowcases Industrial Tarpaulins Bookbinding Zipper tape
BIOTECH COTTON Genetically engineered cotton by recombinant DNA technology Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) d-endotoxin Biological insecticide Insect resistance, herbicide tolerance Benefits: reduced pesticide use, improved crop management effectiveness, reduced production costs, improved yield and profitability, reduction in farming risk, improved opportunity to grow cotton in areas of severe pest infestation. Potential risk: resistance, the emergence of secondary pests
ORGANIC COTTON Grown without use of synthetic compound Produced to maintain soil fertility and ecological environment of the crop Turkey, US, India: 75% organic cotton
PERTUMBUHAN KAPAS 500,000 FIBERS/BOLL 100 BOLLS/PLANT
JENIS KAPAS Species Commercial varieties Producing Countries Length Fineness Uses/Remarks G.hirsutum American Upland 90% world prod. USA 22-36 mm 3.8-5.0 Apparel, home furnishing, industrial products G. barbadense ELS, Egyptian, American-Egyptian, Sea Island, Pima. 8% world prod. Egypt, Sudan 33-36 mm < 4.0 High-quality apparel, specialty yarns for lace and knitted goods. G. arboreum G. Herbaceum Desi Pakistan, India, Burma, Bangladesh, Thailand, Vietnam 9.5-19 mm > 6.0
KOMPOSISI KIMIA n-1
MORFOLOGI
CHEMICAL STRUCTURE & REACTIVITY DP > 20.000 BM 3240000 Da 2-OH > 6-OH >> 3-OH
SIFAT-SIFAT KIMIA Terhidrolisa dalam asam kuat sehingga kekuatannya turun Oksidator (misalnya bleaching agent) berlebih menghasilkan oksiselulosa kerusakan serat Menggembung dalam larutan alkali proses merserisasi untuk meningkatkan kilau dan daya serap serat terhadap zat warna.
SIFAT-SIFAT FISIK Warna kapas agak sedikit krem perlu proses pengelantangan (bleaching) untuk kain putih Kekuatan 2-3 g/denier, meningkat 10% ketika basah Mulur 4-13%, rata-rata 7% MR 7-8,5% Mudah kusut
FUTURE TREND? Future demand remains high, albeit at slower rate than synthetic fibers Quality improvement continues Biotech cotton Organic cotton