Java & Bali Traditional Hair Bun

2 MAIN THINGS IN TRADITIONAL HAIR SETTING Design of Traditional Hair Bun : a. There must be balance between the shape of hair bun and the size of head, the tall of the body, condition of hair, age, and the purpose of the using hair bun. b. Harmoniums, c. The tone, d. The shape of the bun, e. The using of ornaments. 2. Factors influencing traditional hair bun setting : a. The position of someone in the society b. Characterize a tribe c. Characterize a local area Adanya keseimbangan antara bentuk sanggul dengan besarnya kepala, tinggi tubuh, kondisi rambut, umur dan tujuan pemakaian, b. Keharmonisan, c. Irama, d. Bentuk dari sanggul, e. Penambahan-penambahan ornament/hiasan sanggul. 2. Faktor-faktor yang mempengarruhi penataan sanggul daerah a. Kedudukan seseorang dalam masyarakat b. Ciri-ciri dari suatu suku c. Ciri dari suatu daerah Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata TRADITIONAL HAIR BUN Traditional Hair Buns that have been standardized, there are : 1. Ciwedey from West Java 2. Ukel Tekuk from DI Yogyakarta 3. Ukel Konde from Solo 4. Sanggul Madura from East Jawa 5. Cepol from Betawi 6. Pusung Tagel from Bali Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

1. SANGGUL CIWEDEY FROM WEST JAVA It was known in 1947 by Ibu kanjeng A. Wiranata Kusumah. Sanggul Ciwidey get influence from Islam and it is characterized with ALIF PAKAIT NUN. Characteristic of the bun : 1. the hair without bouffant 2. The length of additional hair (cemara) is 80 - 90 cm 3. The shape of bun isn’t round and isn’t oval. 4. The place is at the back and symmetric. 5. using jabing which covers 1/3 ears. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

STEPS TO FORM TRADITIONAL HAIR BUN CIWIDEY Make jabing (sunggar) first, the shape is rather swell up. Tight all hair together at the back head ± 5 – 7 fingers from the bottom head. Attach cemara on the binding. Form cemara by rotating it rightward, downward and tuck onto the line middle of the bun, and the end of cemara is rotated towards the binding of the hair. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 5. The bun must not touch the collar of the clothes. 6. Attach ornament of the bun : 2 Cucuk gelung emas Picture: the procedure of forming hair bun Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

2. UKEL TEKUK FROM D.I.Y. YOGYAKARTA Characteristic of Ukel Tekuk : 1. Hair without bouffant and it is smooth at the crown. 2. The length of cemara is 100 – 125 cm. 3. Using lungsen 4. The shape of the bun is symmetric. 5. The bun is not pinned (gendel-gendel). Ornament of Ukel Tekuk : 1. Pethat Gunungan 3. Jebehan 2. Ceplok Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

STEPS TO FORM THE UKEL TEKUK TRADITIONAL HAIR BUN 1. Make lungsen, about 2-3 fingers at the front. 2. Make sunggar at the sides, left and right. The rest of the hair is tight back with the height ± 5-7 fingers from the bottom hairline 3. Attach cemara, twist leftward, upward to the binding then rightward (look at the picture) 4. The end of the hair is tight at the edge hair. The right hair is rotated at the edge. The right side of the bun is rather lean on the left and rather bigger. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata STEPS TO FORM THE BUN 5. Lungsen is pulled down to part the bun and strengthen the bun at once 6. Attaching ornament a. Pethat gunungan, is at the top of the bun b. Ceplok, is at the middle of the bun c. Jebehan, is at the left and right of the bun. 5. Lungsen diturunkan untuk membelah sanggul sekaligus untuk menguatkan sanggul. 6. Memasang ornament a. Pethat gunungan, diatas sanggul b. Ceplok, pada tengah-tengah sanggul c. Jebehan, pada kanan dan kiri sanggul Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 3. UKEL KONDE FROM SOLO Characteristic of the bun : Hair without bouffant The length of cemara is 100 – 125 cm Using sunggar The place of the bun is at the back The bun is overlooking from the right and left front. The shape of the bun is symmetric Ornament of Ukel Konde : Tusuk konde 1 pair 2. Penetep 1 piece Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata STEPS TO FORM THE BUN Make Sunggar first, The location is not too high. Comb the hair backward to the center, then tight up ( ± 5 fingers ) from bottom hair line Attach cemara. Ukel is formed following these pictures: Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata STEPS TO FORM THE BUN Attach ornament : a. Tusuk konde, is attached at the right and left of the bun b. Penetep, is attached at the center bun, above the ring Picture : Sanggul Konde from front and back Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

4. GELUNG MADURA FROM EAST JAVA Characteristic of the bun Hair without bouffant and sunggar The length of cemara is 80 cm Let the smooth hair on forehead (sinom) hang down The shape of bun is rather solid and not too big. The middle of the bun must stick out and rather lean rightward. The right and left ears are overlooking Ornament of the bun : 1. 4 kinds of Flowers : a. Dark red Rose b. Jasmine c. White and yellow Kantil d. Kenanga 2. Tusuk konde (bun pin) in the shape of a coin Ringgit / dinar Melati : rangkaian bunga melati yang dijahit didaun pisang berbentuk setengah lingkaran ± 10 cm 2-3 susun, boleh rangkap atau tidak. Kenanga : diselipkan bunga melati pada daun bunganya. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata STEPS TO FORM THE BUN 1. Comb all the hair, tight like horse tail. 2. Attach cemara, twist rightward, not too tight or loose. 3. The shape of bun is like Cepol (Betawi), at the middle must stick out like the shape of nose, the place is a little to the right. 4. The whole shape is rather oval and not too big. 5. Attach the ornament : a. Red rose is at the middle of the bun b. Tusuk dinar 3 peaces beside the rose c. Double Jasmine is at the right between the bun and the hair. d. Kantil and kenanga at the middle of the bun which stick out. Source : Slamet Sukabul ( 2005 ) Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

5. KONDE CEPOL (Betawi, DKI Jakarta ) The Characteristics : 1. The hair is not back combed 2. The length of cemara is about 60 cm 3. The bun is as big as a fistful, solid and hard 4. Use a little only hair bouffant (sunggar) 5. There is a duck tail shape at the back bottom Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata STEPS TO FORM THE BUN Comb the hair tidily upward. If the hair is lift up high, the bottom part will form loose setting (like duck tail). The hair is tied up while attaching the hair addition The front hair is a little aliened Form the bun, the middle part stick out. Attach ornament jasmine (roje melati) on the right up of the bun. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata 6. PUSUNG TAGEL FROM BALI Kinds Of the bun : a. Pusung Gonjer for girls b. Pusung Tagel for married woman Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata PUSUNG TAGEL FROM BALI Characteristic of the bun Hair without bouffant The length of cemara is 75 cm Using penyawat (lungsen) Using angkuk-angkuan The position of the bun is at the back The shape of the bun is asymmetric : at the left is batun pusungan is not overlooking from the front view. At the right is tagelan overlooking from front view, and the length is almost touching shoulders Ornament of the bun : Bunga sandat, at least 2 bunch Kompyong Simanggi sibak one set Fresh flower : kenanga, cempaka kuning, rose, kamboja Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata STEPS TO FORM THE BUN PUSUNG TAGEL : a. The bun consist of 2 parts, - batun pusungan, the shape is round - tagelan is in the form of cemara which is fold up (the length may not touch the shoulders) b. Make penyawat/lungsen (± 2 – 3 fingers) from front hair c. Make angkuk-angkuan/sunggar d. Hair is comb neatly back, tight like a horse tail ( ± 5 – 7 fingers from bottom hair line bawah ) Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata e. Attach cemara, Attach cemara, twist and rotate downward, upward to form batun pusungan and the rest is rotated at the edge binding of the hair. f. Tagelan is twisted rightward so that become one line from batun pusungan g. Attach the ornament : a. Bunga sandat, the place is at the middle top b. Kompyong, the place is at the middle top c. Simanggi sibak one set, the place is under sandat d. Fresh flower, the place is in front of sandat Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata STEPS TO FORM THE BUN 2. Pusung Gonjer : a. The bun consist of 2 parts : - batun pusungan in the form of round circle - gonjeran in the form of the hair hanging down. b. Make angkuk-angkukan/sunggar c. Comb hair neatly and tight at the back like a horse tail d. Attach cemara, twist and rotate downward, upward to form batun pusungan and the rest is let hanging down (gonjer) e. The place of ornament the same as Pusung Tagel. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Cosmetic Used to Form Hair Bun Hair spray Styling Spray Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Equipment Used to Form Traditional Hair Bun Tail comb Bouffant comb Bouffant smoothen Big pincurls Big hairpins Straight pins

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Additional hair 3. Mannequin Rubber string 4. Standart Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata TREATMENT OF THE BUN Dry Rice stem that has been burned, soak in the water, use as shampoo. Dadap serep leaf is used to cool the hair The water of old tamarind (asam kawak) for removing dandruff. Coconut milk is used to shine, soften, and improve the growth of the hair. Pandan leaf / mangkokan leaf are mixed with coconut oil . This coconut oil is then called cem-ceman oil, this is good to slow down the growth of white hair, shine the hair, and give good smell Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

Thanks